My first exposure to Vietnam and it’s illuminating past was through the historical novel ‘Saigon’ by British author Anthony Grey. Published in 1982 it’s an epic saga that delineates three families of American, French and Vietnamese origin through five decades that chronicles the French Colonial Rule; 1925 – 1840. World War ll and Japanese occupation; 1940 – 1945. The first Indochina War; 1946 – 1954 culminating in the historic French defeat in the Battle of Dien Bien Phu. The Vietnam War; 1955 – 1975 that intricately defines the tragic American military escalation and the resilience of the Vietnamese people to survive for freedom – that created an indelible respect for them. I was deeply moved by their ability and determination to win by becoming one ‘race and people’. Fearless in their pursuit for human dignity.
Of course, my journey through Anthony Grey’s explicit and eloquent narrative and dramatization was eons back. And over the years Vietnam became just another Southeast Asian nation that managed to win an almost insurmountable battle. The photo of the last helicopter evacuating marines from the roof of the US embassy with people desperately dangling on to it is iconic. It defines the futility of hunger for power in facing the determination of a people fighting for freedom.
Of course, those were my youthful impressionable days. Life, responsibilities and experiences bring about so many changes in our thinking. And we become wiser and pragmatic.
The opportunity to live through some of Grey’s description came some 26 years back when I visited Ho Chi Minh City briefly, related to my work. Vietnam was then at the recovery mode from a painful, debilitating and exhausting aftermath of a 20 years long fight for liberation and survival. I remember broken streets, destroyed buildings, poverty and people still with fragile and fearful expressions. Very few cars but hoards of cycles and basic 50 cc motorbikes swarming the potholed roads.
Throngs of people busily swarming everywhere. No time to spare… felt like the city population was trying to catch up with the time lost. But even then I felt the graciousness of the Vietnamese people. They seemed undaunted by all the obstacles and challenges. I returned with scanty memory of any significance but hungered to learn more.
So when we started planning for our Vietnam trip I was thrilled with innumerable expectations. Hubby felt that we should travel the length starting from Hanoi the capital in the north, traveling down to south to Ho Chi Minh city (previously Saigon) and then back track via Da Nang the central region that would complete the great ‘S’ map of Vietnam.
We both love traveling by train. And whenever possible avail it. It’s the most romantic and adventurous way to see a land with all its nuances. Truly experience a way of life and learn about cultures and norms. As such we booked our journey through Vietnam with the state railway. Of course, relying mostly on research through chatgpt Aunty – who seems to know what we want – so intuitive.
After days and weeks of planning and scheduling done mostly by hubby … he enjoys these projects immensely. We finally boarded the early morning flight from Bangkok to Hanoi. Needless to say our excitement and also a bit of trepidation grew as we touched down at the Noi Bai International Airport in Hanoi. The airport was officially opened for Civil commercial aviation in 1978. The site originally served as a military airbase for the Vietnamese Air Force during the Vietnam War. Following the reunification of the country, the Civil Aviation Administration of Vietnam established it as a public airport.
Our aircraft reached the designated gate after taxing for quite a while. We passed substantially large cargo and maintenance areas and hangers before seeing the actual passenger terminal. It was modern and long. The runway was thronged on one side by lush green grass fields broken by clusters of trees. A very pleasant sight indeed. No high rises or concrete structures to spoil the view.
It was refreshing. I could already feel the anticipation of an exhilarating trip!
The walking bay was spacious and clean. Interior was well lit. Not too many neon adds. Some murals of typical Vietnamese life – mostly rice fields. It felt pleasant, warm and welcoming. Rest rooms were modern with sensor soap dispensers et al. There were few cafes and the usual currency exchange counters. Immigration was a breeze. Not having much info about the airport we had booked for fast track through the hotel. They were very efficient.
elite-of-the-seas-cruise
There were sufficient numbers of baggage collection belts. And trolleys were already placed along the length of the belt on either side. How thoughtful! There were markers to restrict placing the trolley too near the moving conveyor belt to avoid any inconvenience to passengers. All these were very impressive.
However, baggage delivery was extremely slow. I mean really slow. There were about 150 passengers in our flight. And we finally collected our luggage after 40 minutes!!! And that too we had priority tags.
Vietnam Airlines Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner
Our fast track guide took us to the pick up provided by the hotel. After more than hour post landing we started for the hotel.
It was a six lane road, three lanes on either side having beautiful landscaping on both sides and the divider. Reminded me of Singapore. Much to my surprise I didn’t see any motorbikes on the road. The road wasn’t too busy at that time of the day. Plenty of tourist busses were passing us by. After about 35 minutes we turned away from the highway and entered the lanes of the city.
Pretty soon the roads narrowed and we crossed some intersection. All along I was happy to see old raintrees adorning the sidewalks. They were such a welcome sight. Bearing witness to a way of life that was changing but also holding on to its roots.
It was also a relieve not to be seeing ugly concrete high rises. The beauty of Hanoi to me, watching the city pass by the window of the car was the colonial architecture that is so well maintained and retained. Reflects the true character of the city.
Weaving through some more narrow streets we finally reach our hotel, The Heritage Hotel & Spa at Pho Ham Long. I felt I had landed into another era – located in the French Quarters just a few minutes from the old town. The hotel blends traditional French Indochine design and style with contemporary art nuovo. A defined blending of elegance and sophistication in a boutique hotel.
The welcome service was impeccable. Attention to details was very impressive. I knew our stay at this property will be memorable.
Some pictures complete the descriptions for this part.
